Not green enough

Has anyone tried growing wheatgrass using 2 trays? This is where you water the plants from below and allow the roots to capture as much water as they need. I'm hoping it prevents mould. I'm experimenting with adding my kelp meal to the second tray instead of sprinkling on top but was reading that it should be in the soil...

Also, my wheatgrass is not as green as I think it should be. I've got 40W grow lights from the hardware store (four of them) and lots of indirect light coming in from a window. Any suggestions on how to increase chlorophyll?

First the mold is happening for one reason......TOO much moisture at one point of your growing expierience.

Soaking too long.

or watering too much after the seconf day the seeds are in your trays.

Also are you using air-conditioning or fans for good ventalation?

Forget the grow lights and stick with good morning defused sunlight.....perhaps you are getting afternoon sun on the north side of where you grow.

Where is your kelp meal coming from(America...Canada...Norway?

Bottom watering can be helpful contoling mold.

NOT over watering is the answer to your problem./

Yeah, its a tough one but I think I'm getting the watering thing down. I've also started taking my trays outside on cloudy days until my greenhouse is ready Then, my wheatgrass should be awesome!

A question about kelp powder though - when I add it to my watering water, it sinks to the bottom. When I sprinkle it on top of the soil, they're the spots that tend to mould first. I'm not sure where my kelp meal comes from, I just bought it from the healthfood store in Calgary. Am I supposed to use some special seaweed extract in liquid form especially for this purpose? Surely not...

Anyway, I read that the suface mould (I get two types: cotton and green) are not pathogenic so not to worry about it too much. Do you agree?

Thanks for your time

You want to dry mix in the kelp powder just before moistening the growing medium.Mold is bad plain and simple,get control through strict moisture protocals!The key is moist NEVER WET!My main issue with mold is summertime humidity here in central Il.I grow outside using 4tier grow racks with 60% shade cloth.I purchased them from FarmTek.com,proper tools make for bumber crops!Happy growing!

About controlling the watering.

I use a Food Grade Sea KelpMeal...not powder from Canada...as a topical enhancement to the wheatgrass growing that I have done the past 9 years...commercially.
apply it to the trays when the wheatgrass is about a 1/2 inch high.....and the flush of the germination is completed.

Here in the States it cost at least $50.oo for a 50 pound bag. Not cheap but worth it.

My custom grow mix and kelp meal are both Canadian....the BEST!

Thank you JJ43 and Wheatenergy - is the sea kelp meal a powder that I sprinkle over the 1/2 inch shoots or do I mix it with water first?

I think I will use up my kelp powder first (it cost $18 for 2 lbs!!), mixing it in my growing medium like JJ43 suggested. I did think, however, that since I'm watering from the bottom, that it would be best placed in the second tray - do you agree?

What sort of store would carry sea kelp meal? I've been to all the usual places and people look at me like I have two heads!

And I have just purchased a large fan - hopefully that helps!

Oh, and is my grass not green enough because of the mould or is that something else entirely?

Ok, just found Canadian sea kelp meal - thank you!!!

Arcadian kelp in Nova Scoticia is where to ionquire about the kelp meal I use....in Canada.

You may MIX it into the soil or soiless grow mix you are using....or use it as a topical when the wheatgrass is about 1/4 inch tall..Either way will work.

If you do apply too much it will STRUNT the growth of the wheatgrass...and make it taste stronger....but not lousy as with too much Azomite (mineral rock).

As it gets warmer and you have MORE hot and HUMID days...remember as we told use ...less with the water....after the FIRST two days of the seeds germinating in your trays.....LIGHT topical watering 2-4 times a day keeeping the seeds moist constantly(providing you have a good quality SPROUTING berries and NOT cerael or grain.) Otherwise if the grow mix becomes soupy the chance of rotting the seeds ...and the roots will become more of a problem than the mold.

After the second day if the seeds are not germinating well. You more than likely did not give them ENOUGH moisture. The third and fourth day I water them till the trays are VERY moist(remember I do not have a chemical wetting agent in my custom Fafard grow mix(company is also from Canada). So my Mix does not GRAB water like MOST of the commercial blends that are sold to the public. With the addition of plenty of Perlite.....the root airation is tremendous...I NEVER use Vermiculite bercause it grabs and increases the over watering problem that most growing expierience. Vermiculite is a nice WORD ...but does not add any benefits of easier growing. (my opinion). A soiless grow mix lowers the risk potential of Salmonella and Ecoli below the surface.

Remember it is nice to seed the tray generously....but again too much_ not enough and just right applys. You may always add some seeds after the first watering....(I always keep a pound or two in reserve(sprouted berries) ) to fill in gaps that may ocurror. Pileing them up only causes the mold and rotting potential.

Keep us posted as to your results....

Eat fresh and Stay Green and BE Healthy!

I got quoted $58 per litre for liquid concentrate (Growth Plus) and told its better than the kelp meal. Any comments? They say it uses 10ml per 5 litres.

And I want to ask about the trays you're using. Do they have lots of holes and tonnes of drainage or just a few slits? And what are they sitting on, wire racks or wooden shelves? I think maybe my trays aren't draining as well as they should.

Liquid concentrate would be helpfull for vegatables but not for sprouts.The grass sprouts can be fed ozmoticaly by foliar spray applications of dissolved nutrients not suspended precursers!Kelp is a low grade soil amendment and applying topicaly is pointless.Any organic matter must be broken down by microbial activity in the soil matrix before the plant will have acces to it.But then again a little mulch at the base of a plant seems to make them happy.Just started some black oil sunflower seeds for microgreens.Sprouts rule!!!

Thanks JJ43. I've started mixing my kelp powder into my soil. Are you saying that I should be spraying the blades for osmotic absorption or...? Sorry, I don't quite understand

I just found out from the Hippocrates Institute that if its not in the seed, it won't be in the grass because nothing you do will increase the amount of nutrients in the first 10 days of growth... I was told fertilising is unnecesary.

Which brings me to my next question: What is the difference between a cereal grain seed and a sprouting seed? I have organic hard wheat berries grown for cereal and they sprout just fine (not to mention cost $25 for 25lbs compared with $13.95 per pound at Sproutpeople.com). Any ideas?

Oh, and I'm still wondering about the type of trays you people are using...?

is now at the Hiippiocrates in West Palm. And I agree that God's gift of wheatgrass could be grown in your hand ... without any fertalizer. And provide the gift of cleasneing..healing...rejuvination,,,and ENERGY!

JJ43 and I have gone back and forth about MANY growing issues... we have opinions....and totally different climates that we grow in. Plus I consistantly produce hundreds ofpounds wheatgrass a week and he grows a few trays for his personal use. This is my 9th dedicated year! 7 days a week.

Remeber we compost all our cut one time trays...turning them with a 40 hp John Deer tractor. Adding fresh custom grow mix each time. So the kelp meal IS in the growing mix....only amended with the topical application.

JJ43 Is correct.....Food grade sea kelp meal is a gental way of adding minerals to the wheatgrass and that is why we spend at least $3,000.oo a year and stilluse it.

Sprouting grain is tested for microbial contamination and germination ratios!This insures growers of quality and safety.This is very important for commercial operations that are classified as a food handeler or prep.I think!All because of some bad seed from the netherlands that got people sick.Home growers dont need sprouting grade for grass.But for alfalfa,mungbean,and the edible sprouts its a good idea to get sprouting grade!Try the handypantry.com for bulk sprouting seed.I get my trays from a local seed store with holes already poked.You can always add more if you feel its needed.Your local greenhouse might have some as well.First learn to grow healthy grass with a lush growth consistantly.Then you can consider growing grass with a high brix level.Michael has some nice pics. at the hippocratesgreenhouse.com and he will answer your email questions.Happy growing!!

I would put the SEED preference in a different way....ORGANIC certifed seeds are NOT treated with any Chemical repellants for bugs...fungus etc.(coatings)

Some of the not certified organic are coated to insure that LARGE field grown crops are more sucessful.

I will stick with the Hard red Spring wheat....which cost $3-4 more in the 60's than the hard red Winter wheat seeds per bag...(50 pounds). And when the dollar was worth much more than today it was a considerable savings to by the winter.

Now today they are priced about the same.

Ive always wondered about kelp not being composted with the soil first before using.
I know that it does benefit the wheatgrass growing,but for anything to truly be absorbed 100% by the plant it has to be broken down...even if its in powder form.

If its not composted,the plant has trouble using it.

It has to absorb a little,but I doubt that it fully benefits the plant if not composted.

This is something Im going to try and see the differance. I also use kelp liquid and spray as a foliant till 2 days before using. In the warmer months it takes 3 days of the growing time and the wheatgrass blades are a lot thicker than normally grown...thus more juice.

This is my first year of growing and its winter over here. Boy its taking a lot longer to grow !! Still working out my growing schedule. After 3 months of a really warm summer,its a pain to see it grow so slowly. Last batch was the best. Had the kick of a she-mule. I also grow barley as well and drink a 50 / 50.

Yes when we apply the kelp to the trays as the wheatgrass is growing....it is for the reason that the kelp is distributed evenly throughout the soiless custom grow mix I use. Not the fact it is doing very much at that time. So when we turn and compost the ONE tine cut trays the application is consistant.

EVERYONE is correct on this one. (my opinion).

Using ONLY difussed sunlight is IMPORTANT. Providing artificial light ...can help to strech the growth .... but does not produce a "chi factor".

I have been producing a PREMIUM wheatgrass for hundreds of people for the past 9 years......if I thought some thing was BETTER Than the Food Grade Sea Kelp Meal.....Damm.....I'd use it.

JJ43 and I have different opinions now and then....THAT is what this forum is all about.

Thicker blade of Wheatgrass means that the grass has absorbed minerals and such....and that liquids were not used or dominant.

Hi All,
I have been reading the posts about kelp for fertilizer. I am presently using Sea Magic sold at Burpee Seeds.com. It is a foliar concentrate that gives a good color. My problem is I do not get but about a 5" growth in the tray. I am also having problem with mold but will try the fans.

Has anyone else tried this liquid kelp, it is from Canada.

Gardenjewel

Hello gardenjewel control the mold and the yield will increase.Some seed such as spring wheat grows fast and dosent grow very tall.What type of seed are you using and have you grown any flats free of mold?There are many variables in the art of growing plants this makes it hard to truly give helpfull advice.Watering from the bottom up is a great way to control mold and the liquid kelp is a common problem for mold.Are you growing inside or outside how much growing medium and what is it made of?

Get some Sea Magic from Burpee seeds and after the seed sprouts enough, about 1/2 inch, liberally spray with this mixture 3 or 4 times daily. I spray even to the day I plan to cut the grass. Mid growth I water the grass very good, one time, at the kitchen sink with the sprayer. Thereafter, only 3 or 4 daily sprayings of Sea Magic. You will not find anything more economical then this product from Canada, one packet makes one gallon of concentrate.

Hi,
I am using Hard Red Winter wheat. I have stopped oversoaking my seeds and use more soil, actually soiless from a local garden center. I doubled the amount of soil bring it to the top of the tray, which makes it about 2" deep. I have three trays growing with these changes and have some of the most beautiful organic grass yet. The blades are twice the size they were in half the amount of soil. I got the soil that has a small amount of pine bark in it and the mold is much better. I spray the grass 3 or 4 times a day with the Sea Magic and it is a beautiful green and about 5 inches tall and still growing in front of my large windows in the living room. No grow lights and still get plenty of green color. How happy can you get with this kind of success.

FreetryDurb <a href=kuygkyudu.com>jufufduy</a> frerseLug

Thanks for sharing..................

Hay to all

Near about 60 us$ /liter for liquid concentrate growth plus and told its better than the kelp meal. They say it uses 10ml per 5 litres.

And I want to inquire about the trays you are using. Do they have lots of holes and tonnes of drainage or just a few slits. And what are they sitting on, I think probably my trays aren't draining as well as they should.

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try to use growth plus, helped me

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Liquid apply would be helpfull for vegatables but not for sprouts.The grass sprouts can be fed ozmoticaly by foliar aerosol applications of attenuated nutrients not abeyant precursers!Kelp is a low brand clay alteration and applying topicaly is pointless.Any amoebic amount accept to be torn down by microbial action in the clay cast afore the bulb will accept acces to it.But afresh again a little admixture at the abject of a bulb seems to accomplish them happy.Just started some atramentous oil sunflower seeds for microgreens.Sprouts rule!

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